The final day trip of my first course took us to Samaria. I found the trip a great
insight to the dynamics of this different Jewish tradition. Mount of Gerizim was chosen to replace the Temple in Jerusalem after North and South split. The South still worshipped in Jerusalem but Kings of the North wanted to keep their people away from Jerusalem and that’s why they created a new holy site. Although the Northern Kingdom was the first to be conquered by Assyrians but they still practice the old sacrifices which are offered on the Passover Day every year compering to the lack of the sacrifices in Jerusalem.

The competing dynamic was clear in the story of Jesus and the Samaritan woman who picked out the differences in the conversation. Our visit to the church where the Jacob well is preserved was the highlight of the day. The Orthodox Church located there is full of beautiful icons but I was thrilled to discover that the well hasn’t been altered much and still looks like a well. It  has got even water in it. I have always been captivated by the story from St John Gospel but now I can add a new dimension of being located in Judeans
resistance territory. I was just thinking about that woman listening to Jesus and looking at the Mount Gerizim clearly visible from the well. How much the memory of her own customs must have weight on her comprehension of what Jesus was telling her? It is a good place to reflect on what can obscure my perception of Jesus’ teaching, on what can draw my attention away from him like the Mount Gerizim could draw the woman’s attention away from  Jesus.

Exploring the situation of Samaria we also visited the city Samaria that eventually gave name to this area. Today the place is called Sabaste as King Herod build here a temple for the Emperor after whom the whole site was named. What I found inspiring in the place is the story of a Christian family who wants to preserve the Christian presence in the area. They are the only Christian family in this Muslim place. I found it a very uplifting experience that the overwhelming majority of Muslims here didn’t draw the attention of these few Christian away from Jesus. They are still focused on Him. They look after the ruins of the church which was built on the place where John Baptist's disciples buried his head after he was beheaded at the demand of the spoilt girl as we read in the Gospel.

As we were leaving Galilee our Professor Brian took us to a secluded access to the Jordan River. Approaching the bank of the River my thoughts automatically went to that day when Jesus came to John the Baptist to be baptized. As the Gospel says the heaven opened and the Holy Spirit like a dove descended on the Lord. I stood there reflecting on how much we are immersed
in this mystery by our own baptism. When most of my protestant friends were  wandering around I went to the river dipped my hand in the water and made the Sign of the Cross thanking the Holy Trinity for my own participation in what Jesus originated here. Maybe I will never again touch the water of this River but the grace of the Holy Baptism keeps touching me very deeply to shape me according to the image of Christ.

After this highly emotional and spiritual moment at the Jordan we went to the city of Megiddo, or what is left of it, which played prominent role in the history of the ancient East. Strategically located it controlled access to the road that linked Egypt with Mesopotamia and Anatolia, the most important trade and military route of that time. Megiddo is the only site in the Land of Israel mentioned in the records of all Near Eastern ancient powers and was one of the most fought-over cities in the region. The first fully recorded battle in history, in which Pharaoh Thutmose 3rd faced a coalition of Canaanite kings, took place here in 1479 B.C. The Pharaoh ordered and inscription to be made in the Karnak Temple in Egypt to mark that victory: “Taking Megiddo is as good as taking a thousand cities.” Archeological excavations have revealed that it was also a sacred place for more than 2000 years before it was destroyed. The  excavations have shown over 30 settlements that were built on the top of each
  other as different groups were moving into the city. Megiddo is also mentioned in many biblical narratives. Its king was one of the Canaanite rulers defeated by Joshua when the people of Israel was taking over the land afar their wandering in the desert. It was rebuilt by King Solomon, and it was the site where two Judean kings – Ahaziah and Josiah met their deaths. For millions of Christians, Megiddo is the Armageddon from St John’s Apokalypse, where the forces of Good will defeat the forces of Evil in the Final Battle at the End of Days. In 1964 Pope Paul VI came here to meet the President of the State of Israel to hold a reconciliation service on the side that has seen so many battles and deaths.

From Megiddo we drove up to the Carmel Range. The view from the top of the monastery is overwhelming and so is the story of the prophet Elijah through whom God proved the true faith here. At God's command Elijah brought fire from heaven to consume the sacrifice prepared for God while the prophets of Baal couldn’t do that. I liked the statue of Elijah erected in front of the Carmelite monastery there. It is so dynamic like the man who was one of the greatest figures in the Old Testament.
For most of us Catholics the Mt Carmel is associated with the Virgin Mary whom we call Our Lady of Mt Carmel. Carmelite Fathers still live, work and pray here like the hermits of the first centuries who chose this Mountain Range for their home. The statue of Our Lady in the church isn't big but because there are very few decorations inside you cannot miss it . Very firmly she seems to show her Son Jesus to the visitors.

It was Jesus' theme day as we drove around the Sea of Galilee. I think most of Christians recognize the names of Chorozain, Capernaum and Bethsaida where Jesus spend most of his ministry. What really struck me is how small the area is. One doesn’t need to travel much to go from one  village to another. It looks to me that Jesus was a very domesticated person but still I couldn’t help thinking that what he did here was for the sake of the whole world. As we travelled around I thought about these three inconspicuous villages like something similar to the three springs of the Jordan River from which water flows that brings life to the whole Rift Valley. The tree villages are called sometimes the Evangelical Triangle. As I mentioned it is a small area but it is packed with events. Here Jesus cured the centurion's servant. The centurion said the well known words we repeat at every Mass: "Lord I am not worthy that you should enter under my roof but only say a word and my seven will be well again>"

As we continued travelling we visited some other churches commemorating some events from Jesus’ life. The church of Peter’s Primacy which recalls the day when Jesus after his Resurrection three times asked Peter whether he loved him and where he entrusted him with care for the future Church community. I enjoyed the location of the church that nearly touches the water of the Sea like that day when Jesus cooked fish for his disciples.

It was also an  uplifting experience to pray at the Mount of Beatitudes where Jesus’ Sermon on the Mount is remembered. I was expecting a much bigger church but I love the way the windows overlook the Sea giving the same view Jesus’ listeners had when he was preaching and I found the church focused on its theme. The Beatidudes are really proclaimed by the architecture of the church. I read the Mathew’s passage of the Sermon being immersed in the atmosphere of the place.

I also found a visit to Capernaum a refreshing experience. Capernaum was the hometown of Peter. Here it was found that an early Christian church was built on a house which is believed to be Peter’s. The modern church preserves the old site as the focus point but what struck me was that it was house of Jesus as well. He was coming here and I can’t imagine Peter treating his Master as a passing visitor. Here Jesus also cured Peter’s mother in law. I reflected that after so many centuries Jesus still leaves in this church as the Eucharist is preserved here.

The final boat journey through the Sea of Galilee was not only fun but a prayer
too because how not to pray when one thinks about Jesus crossing this Sea many times with his disciples.

I have fallen in love with the Sea of Galilee. Now I can understand why Jesus spent most of his time here.

Tooday we went to Har  Bental. The peak of the mountain that some years ago was used by Syrian Army. There are still bunkers and other things reminding hat time. Anyway the spot provides a marvelous view towards Lebanon, Syria  and of course Israel that controls the hill now.

However the magnificent view of Mount Hermon inspired me to  think about a journey a young Jew was taking down through the plains, the journey that had the outcome he didn’t expect. The young Jew was St Paul the Apostle who was travelling to Damascus which is behind the Mt Hermon. As he was  approaching the Hermon Range Jesus Christ appeared to him. After the appearance Paul lost his sight and had to be taken to Damascus where he didn’t imprison Christians as he was planning to but he became a Christian himself. Looking at the breathtaking mountain with some snow still covering its peak I thought about Paul who might have seen this same mountain as the last thing before Jesus appeared to him and this apparition was more impressing.

The last thing that I would like to mention was our visit to one of the springs that creates the  Jordan River. We saw two of the three: Panias and Dan. However as Panias is associated with Caesarea Philippi it overshadowed all the others to me. This  is the place where Jesus asked his disciples who people think he is. Here Peter answered: “You are th Son of God who was to  come.” The significance of the site is so big to our Christian faith that I kind of overlooked the ruins of the Roman buildings. I rather felt that some interior voice is asking me the same question Jesus put to his Apostles. “Who do you think I am?” That’s why I couldn’t help reciting the Nicene Creed as I stood at the spring of Panias that with three other springs creates the Jordan River.

It was a great, refreshing night at the Sea of Galilee that made me ready for the next day of exploration and learning about the region and its biblical history. This time we went to Golan, the region known in antiquity as Bashan. Now I can understand why the Scriptures talk about the fat cows of Bashan. There is plenty of food for them here. Once again we stopped to catch a view of the Sea of Galilea this time from its eastern side. What can I say about this piece of the Holy Land? I think I have fallen in love with Galilee. It seems to be like a hidden oasis among surrounding hills but big enough not to make me feel claustrophobic. It is an interesting experience. Before I didn’t realize that the Sea of Galilee is located 200 meters under sea level. It is kind of a weird thought when we drive up or down and pass the sign telling us that we are at the sea level while the surface of the water is a long way down. However the Sea gives an impression of freedom and distance from the rest of the world. I am glad that we will spend a couple more days here to immerse ourselves in this area.

As we drove away from the lookout we arrived at  Gamla where the Jews for many months withheld the siege of Romans Army in 66 AD. When Romans were about to break through the wall of the fortress located on the sharp hill the residents threw themselves into the valley in order to avoid being captured. Apparently a few thousand of them did that. The lookout from across the valley gives a great view of the place where so many human lives where ended abruptly. It happened some thirty years after Jesus’ Death and Resurrection. I wander if at least some of them as they saw the end coming
remembered the Prophet from Galilee who lived and preached not far from this  site. As I was looking at the hill I also thought how this military aspect  influences the life of today’s citizens of Israel who are obliged to serve three ears in army (boys) and 1.5 years (girls). This land cannot escape a war situation.

After the somber reflection on the capture of Gamla fortress we moved to Katzrin where we could see some houses from the time of Jesus. They weren’t very big, probably a bit too small for me but the stone material made them very solid. They weren’t very private in our understanding but I can only imagine all the social interactions happening there.

It was the day when very eagerly I was looking forward to seeing the Sea of Galilee where Jesus spent most of his ministry. After leaving Jerusalem we drove first to the ancient city of Beth-shan in the Harod Valley. As we walked up the hill to explore the ruins I didn’t expect to find a city of  such a big size. The ruins of the roman city made a big impression on me. I can only imagine the beauty and perfectness of the design of the place. However the place also bears testimony to how fragile human plans and attempts are. The earthquake that destroyed that magnificent place reminded me the words of the Scripture that “Our true home is in heaven” and that “Here on earth we don’t have a permanent dwelling place”. The place also preserves the tragic end of King Soul and his sons who lost their battle with the Philistines at the near mount Gilboa. According to the Bible the enemies after the victory displayed the bodies of the Royalties at the wells of the city here. Such a bright “career” laid in ruins as the king stopped obeying the commandments of God who chose him and elevated him to such a high position. Without being grounded in God no plans will last.

After exploring the ruins of Beth-Shan we drove to Harod Spring, the  place  which is associated with the story of Gibeon who in this place was given  instructions from God how to choose the warriors for the coming battle.
The  Bible tells that God wanted only a small number to go to fight in order that the victory could be only attributed to him. At the spring the way men drank the water qualified or disqualified them form the battle. As I played with the  water of the spring some thought were going through my mind how much I trust  Jesus in overwhelming situations and how often I tend to attribute the outcome to my own efforts. This site was a good reminder of God’s engagement in the course of the history, particularly my own history.

Another site we could see only form the distance but I still reflect on the event that happened there.  The place is called Shunem and the story is about the Prophet Elisha and a  childless couple who would host the prophet during his journeys. As a thank you gift the prophet promised that they would have a child. I found it interesting the way the woman responded to  the promise. It can be put this way: “I have suffered too much. I have  given up all hope. Please don’t play with my feelings. It hurts too much!”  However at the prayer of the prophet she gave birth to a son. Around 10 years later the child died and she sent a message to Elisha with similar words. The prophet came to their home, laid on the boy and  brought him back to life. The little village located on the slope of the hill  thee is the place where the miracle took place. As I was looking on the site I  was thinking of the woman and her struggles and how much our own struggles are similar to her. Sometimes I may think that God plays with my feelings when things don’t go the way I would like them to but there is always something bigger around the corner.

Talking about these sites means that we got to Jezreel Valley. The first thing that struck me, even before learning about the history  and significance of the area, was how much different the place looked to the Hill Country and some other places we have seen so far. After monotonous Wilderness and rocky Shephelah I could see vegetation blossoming abundantly. As I was admiring the view I realized that across the valey on  the Hills of the Lower Galilee there is a town which sounds familiar to all Christians – Nazareth. Somewhere there,
on the slope of those hills divine life flourished when Gabriel announced to Mary that she would be the Mather of the Son of God. Looking at the Valley I thought that “a drop” of that divine life spread across the valley making it so abundant with life. It was a quiet moment for me when I reflected on Jesus looking at this Valley from across during his time in Nazareth. What did he think looking at this green piece of the Promised Land?

After leaving Jezreel Valley we made our way to the Sea of Galilee. Before we descended on the shore we had a chance to hike a bit to get a view of the place. It gave us a good overview of the area that was the main stage of  Jesus ministry.

Today we travelled along the west bank of the Dead Sea. We started our day at Masada. The fortress was the theme for a movie story. However the story did happen. The fortress that was brought to its glory by King Herod became latter the bastion of resistance for the Jewish Zealots who kept attacking the Romans. Eventually the Romans decided to take care of the Zealots and that what was presented in the movie. The size and design of the fortress that was also King Herod Palace proves his genius and skills. On the other hand it is sad to notice that such a skilled man was also so cruel. The buildings he constructed are admired by tourists today but for his countrymen they were reminders of the tyrant they were glad to see dead. Among the piles of rubble left on the top of the mountain we found however some life. In a room that was rebuilt a Jewish Scribe keeps writing the Scroll of Torah. Later during the day we visited the spring of En-Gedi but this scene from Masada was like a spring too. The man writing the Word of God that was to nurture life of a Jewish Community somewhere where the Scroll will be sent to. Apparently it takes a year to complete one scroll of Torah. I also think that this man “drinks” the Word of
God first before putting it down.           
After the hike down in extreme heat we ended up at En-Gedi. It is truly an oasis on the shores of the Dead Sea. The Sea may be fun for people enjoying easy floating but the water of the see kills all life. On the other hand the spring of water gushing at En-Gedi provides an environment for life to blossom. It was a refreshing moment when we got to the spring. It is like a little rain forest. Even the air isn’t hot-dry but cool and moist. After a harsh condition of the desert it is experiencing life coming back. The place was also the scene of a Biblical event. David was hiding here from the jealous king Soul who was trying to do away with him. Here David could have killed his pursuer as he was advised by his companions but he refused to raise his hand against the king.  I had an impression that the place where God mercifully provides refreshment for travelers was the place where forgiveness and compassion won over revenge and hatred.

After a refreshing sleep in the city of Arad we continued exploring Negev. At Tel Arad we could see the ruins of an Israelite temple. It came as surprise to me as I always thought that there was only one Temple in Jerusalem. Well what we saw shows that Judaism wasn’t a single stream and was undergoing transformation. I was also thinking how patient God has been with us believers even if our pace to follow his ideas is so slow God gives us time to grow to embrace his Law. I must admit that I was surprised that the temple here was rather of a small size. Especially the Holy of Hollies where originally three standing stones were representing God. From Arad we drove to Beersheba. Abraham, father of the Jewish people arrived here 3,700 years ago. He dug a well to water his flock, made a covenant of peace with Abimelech, the king of Gerar in those days, and the two swore allegiance to one another. “Therefore he called that place Beersheba, because there the two of them took an oath." To symbolize his ownership of the well, he planted a tamarisk tree. The tree was a sign that Abraham was to return to settle into the area giving up his nomad life style. The tamarisk trees growing here reminded me not only about having a nice shaded area but first and furthermore that from this place the faith in the one God would spread. Beersheba was to be was the cradle of monotheism. Today we also had a chance to experience a hike that helped us  to experience what the Jews went through during their time in the Wilderness.  For us it was only an hour “appetizer” but for them it was daily bread during 40
years in this challenging and harsh environment. I was proud of myself after climbing to the top of the canyon but when I looked around and saw the vastness of the wilderness I was most grateful that my faith wasn’t tested any further as the bus was waiting there to pick us up. However I can see that such a desert can be the space and time to grow in dependence on God.

Leaving Jerusalem today we could observe olives trees growing on terraces descending into the valleys. Maybe this scene is very obscure but it is another way to experience the Land. There are so many sites associated with various events described in the Scriptures but driving by and looking at places
that look very similar to what people of the Bible saw on regular basis seems to me important as much as the big shrines erected across this country. I just try to imagine Our Lord and his disciples travelling through this land without the luxury of the air-conditioned coach but covering this relatively small but challenging in terms of travelling piece of the world. I guess their way of moving from one place to another gave them more exposure to the surrounding. That’s why I try to “inhale” this Land by focusing on the areas we travel rather than simply waiting for another site to visit. As I mentioned the terraces with olive trees reminded me the parable of the man who build a tower on his field. Similar towers or ruins of such towers I was able to observe during the trip. The owner of the field would use the tower to say during the time of harvesting so that his crop wouldn’t be stolen by somebody else. Probably that’s something different to Australian way of farming but it was a common practice when Jesus walked this Land. Travelling through this same Land I hits me more and more how observative he was and how the landscape and life style of his time made it to his teaching. However the Land is still the shrine of the events that are recorded in the Bible. Most of us are familiar with the battle David had with Goliath. Standing at the Tel-Azeka Lookout that gives a view of the valley when the future king stood up to a much more experienced philistine warrior I was reflecting how much faith David must have had. I always thought of David as a little guy but reading carefully the Bible one can find clues that probably he wasn’t of short posture. I never connected that the reason king Soul offered him his own armour was that they were of similar height. Nevertheless even if he was tall David was unexperienced in war so it was an act of faith to volunteer to fight the best soldier of the Philistines. The valley that goes around the lookout saw the Philistines running away after God’s intervention through unexperienced but trusting young man. Standing at that lookout I reflected on my own faith and trust in God that needs to be “grounded” in places and situations I encounter. Once again it moved me that faith and trust aren’t made up fairy stories but reactions to concrete situations like the one that took in this valley I looked at from the lookout. The ruins of Tel Maresha brought alive another biblical passage alive. In the site we visited an underground columbarium where Jews bred pigeons for religious purposes. According to the Gospel when Mary and Joseph brought the Baby Jesus to the Temple they offered a pair of pigeons. As I was looking at the little arches for the birds to nest I thought about the orthodoxy of Jesus’ parents who faithfully followed the rituals of their people. The same site offered us also an insight to an important “industry” – olive oil. The cave system where the olive oil used to be produced is impressive, however what struck me was that the oil from here was transported all the way to Egypt. As Egypt had a high demand for this product but couldn’t grow olives due to its
climate conditions it needed this part of the land to meet its demands. For us  Christians spread throughout the world it is reminder that for two millennia we rely on what happened in this Land where Jesus fulfilled his Salvation mission.  The last point of our visit to Tel Maresha was visiting a grave site. The empty tomb from that period of time gave us some understanding to the funeral practices to the Jewish people of the time of Jesus. Those who could afford a cave would be placed there on a stone bench until the body decomposed and then the bones would be gathered and placed in the second chamber to make room for the next deceased. The tomb we visited was empty for tourist purposes but I couldn’t stop thinking about another tomb where no bones were gathered as the  body of the Man placed there was resurrected on Easter Sunday. The final trip of the day took us to the Mediterranean Costal City of Ashkelon. While most of the group went for a dip in the sea a few of us had a chance to explore the original site of the city with the remains of the
gate built in 1850 BC. Sometimes reading the Bible we think only about the Jewish people who came to this Promised Land but this Promised Land was home to some others before the Jews settled here.